In the wake of September’s various fashion weeks (2020) – and also just the upcoming change in the weather – I’ve done a review of various Spring 2020 menswear collections. I’ve come to one conclusion: menswear is soft now.
I think, in part, the gentler masculinity of these brands is influenced by the more overtly queer designers that have gained prominence. The bohemian decadence of Palomo Spain and the party girl minimalism of Ludovic Saint Sernin spring to mind when I look at these collections.
These brands push against the limits of what is deemed normal for the male body by tailoring traditionally female styles to suit it. Loewe and Dior Homme wouldn’t be so bold as to run a custom made towel-skirt down the runway. But their recent work indicates that they want to take up some of the room made by the boundary pushers.
Even for the more conservative menswear lines, this year’s trends are soft silhouettes, a playful approach to styling, and the general sense that you will have to really force your male relatives to try any of it on.